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Options for wiring humbuckers

Here are some pretty awesome options for coil cutting mods without a lot of extra parts or cost. These are pretty simple to achieve and can have a great impact on tone. Lets check out the first mod

This will combine a singled coil from the bridge and neck humbucker. It can be used with a standard 3 way switch to create different tones. Its an easy mod and a really great idea!

This second option is probably the best idea I have ever seen. This depression symthoms mod is simlar to a Flying V, with two independent volume controls and one master tone. That leaves one tone pot unused, which we can wire up as the coil cut. When that pot’s cranked to 10, you get the full humbucker; as you dial it down it gradually cuts the coil.

This mod uses piston four or position four in a 5 way switch (bridge, middle pickup) to split the bridge coil for a dual single coil operation closer to the bridge. That way you can single out the humbucker in position five for a totally different sound. Pretty cool!

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Bass flavored upgrades

Hey guys!

I want to show you some quick upgrades that you can do to your cheaper equipment to make it play like a dream!

A customer recently brought me a bass in need of some upgrades. He wanted a new bridge, pickups and a good setup. The customer needed massive low end and a lot of sustain.

Bridge:

The Babicz 4 string fender replacement bridge was a good choice for this bass over the stock crappy cheap metal thing that came stock. I aligned the bridge by taking measurements from the neck and previous bridge alignment. It was a simple install, took less than an hour.

Pickups:

I had a spare set of Seymour Duncan SPB-3 pickups that I installed to pump up the low end…..a lot. This thing sounds MASSIVE!!

Its a better instrument now. More sustain and adjustment from the bridge and a lot more tonal flexibility from the pickups. These are great mods to do if you have the money for it. Cheap how to loose weight instruments dont have to play like cheap instruments. They can be AWESOME!

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Amp repair – Mesa Nomad 1×12

Hey guys!

Today I want to give you all a good example of how simple amp repair can be. I love these kind of examples because they illustrate how things can fail and what you can expect as symptoms.

A wonderful customer recently brought me a Mesa Nomad guitar amp in which the EQ on channel 1 had stopped working. You could turn the knobs all you wanted but it produced no boost or cut on any of the 3 band frequencies. I took the amp out of the chassis only to find that a pot (knob that controls frequency) had come apart inside the amp and the parts were not engaging. Since all the knobs are dependent on each other, they all build muscles stopped working because the one pot failed.

The failed part:

I didn’t even have to replace the part, I put the cap back on, tightened it down and it stayed perfectly intact. This essentially saved the customer a load of bench time and money. It is important to check out the mechanical parts FIRST to make sure that nothing has failed before addressing the rest of the electrical system. It could just be as simple as a failed pot.

That’s all for now! See you all next time!!

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The Subdecay Super Nova Drive – on BASS!!!

It is my extreme pleasure to introduce everyone to the Subdecay Super Nova Drive. I have recorded some sound clips (with the help of Matt from Asteroid M). I have been using this thing for a while and I find that it does not suck. It also leaves your low end intact. Thats hard to find in a beat depression drive pedal, especially for bass.

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Toothpicks and superglue are your friends.

Hey there folks! Its time again for another handy dandy repair blog. Today I want to cover how you can use ordinary toothpicks and superglue to fix common problems with guitar strap buttons and cracks in clear finish.

First, lets address those pesky strap buttons. I cant tell you how many guitars I have seen come through my shop with loose strap buttons. It is a pretty common problem in the repair world which can lead to bigger and bigger problems, damage or guitars being ruined all together. A strap button usually is loose because the threads on the screw holding the button in place are too small, the wood is very soft and wont hold a screw with small threads, or because of excessive strain on the screw, causing the screw to pull out of the hole.

This can result in a lot of problems INCLUDING the strap button popping off during a long set and slamming your guitar neck onto the stage. This is bad, especially if you own a Gibson.

A good and cheap quick-fix for this problem is to:

  • Remove the screw and strap button.
  • Next, find a common household toothpick, preferably made out of wood. Coat a part of the toothpick in wood glue and stick the toothpick into the screw hole until it stops at the end of the hole.
  • Next, break off the toothpick in the hole, wait for the glue to dry and try to re-thread the screw into the hole.

If this does not work, try another toothpick. If that doesn’t work, call me. I can fix it. NEVER try to crank on the screw to the point of where it takes thousands of pounds of force to get it back into the hole. You may end up breaking the screw head off in the hole. This is bad. If the screw does not go back into the hole with a modest amount of effort, stop and call me.

Next, Id like to cover how to repair minor cracks or chips in clear coat finish. I like to use very thin superglue to repair small cracks, chips, indentations or imperfections in thick POLYURETHANE finish. For other types of finish like Nitrocellulose, you can use a reactivating agent that will help the finish re-run into cracks, chips or dents. Superglue is NOT a good solution for these soft types of finish.

It is very important that you lay the guitar down on a flat surface with support for the neck so it does not wobble all over the place. You need a level surface so that the glue with stay where it is applied and not run to other parts of the guitar where you did not need to apply it. Also, if it is running all over the place, you are probably using too much glue. DO NOT OVER GLUE!

  • First, I start by applying a very small amount of very thin super glue to the crack, chip or dent.
  • Next, I wait until the glue is dry and then apply more glue until the imperfection is filled in and moderately level with the rest of the finish in that area.
  • After this, I would finish by sanding down the area with progressively finer and finer grits of sandpaper until the desired sheen is achieved.

I usually start with around 3-400 grit sand paper and work my way up to 1500-5000 or more to take out any left over scratches or to polish the area to a glistening shine. This has worked for me very effectively. It is much easier than trying to get the right kind of poly or epoxy to match the application. If you have left over poly or epoxy finish and you need to match a color, products are sold that will help with that. I find that this is an alternate quick fix for smaller imperfections.

That’s all for now! I hope this information was useful to everyone. Take care and enjoy your instrument!

~Caleb

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The Gibson problem

Hey there folks! Its about that time again!

Its been a little while since my last blog. I have a feeling this blog is going to become more of a repair blog than anything else. But thats ok! There are plenty of things to talk about in the repair world. Right now, my hot topic is the “Gibson problem”.

The Gibson problem is very common. Anyone who owns a Gibson has the potential to run into this problem at one time or another. “What problem” you ask? Pictures can only tell this story….

Thats right folks! the famous Gibson has a weakness! Very soft wood coupled with a lot of tension and any kind of impact create a lot of unwanted problems! Gibson uses mahogany for their neck woods. Its a fairly common wood in the guitar world. Lots of sustain and warmth dwell within this wonderful woody grain. Problem is, unless there is a lot of mass or a good joint (like a scarf joint) between the neck and the headstock, you will almost always have problems.

From what I read, Gibson makes all their necks one piece out of mahogany with a 17 degree headstock angle. the weakness is where the truss rod adjustment screw is near the headstock. When strong enough impact or stress affect this area, it usually cracks. Most cracks and breaks happen in the same place. It is a fairly easy fix, just some glue and a good 24 hours of clamping. I just wonder why Gibson has never made any effort to fix this reoccurring problem?

I recently had to fix one of these wonderfully designed headstock issues. A friend of mine has a Gibson that he loves to death. He went to pick it up off his stand and accidentally dropped it, strings down on a padded floor. The headstock instantly snapped off. Here is a picture of that…

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Wow, look at that! Looks a lot like the breaks in the pictures above, doesn’t it? There you have it! The Gibson problem!

Ofcorse with some glue and a few clamps, this problem is easily solved…..

Some sanding and touchup of the finish is required in this instance. You almost can’t tell anything went wrong!

Anyway, thats all for now! stay tuned for more on this and many other interesting problems!

~Caleb

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